My house in Martinique is much like
many of the other houses here – double level with the bottom floor
very open and airy. This allows for flooding to dry up without
difficulty. The night that I arrived here though, I didn’t notice
or understand any of that. Darkness falls quickly in Martinique. It
starts to get dark at around 5:15 or 6:15, depending on the season, and
ten to fifteen minutes later, it is pitch black. By the time we
pulled up to Sylvie’s house – my new residence – I couldn’t
really make out much. Nor did I try, in my state! Sylvie showed me the room
upstairs where I would be sleeping for the next week or two until she
could get my downstairs quarters all sorted out, and I hit the hay! I
lay in bed on that warm first night, nice and securely protected
under my mosquito net from my lovely roommates (swarms upon swarms of
those insatiable, gluttonous, bloodsuckers! …Not that I’m
bitter…), as enchanting music wafted in through the wide-open
windows. A choir somewhere was singing traditional French songs. How
surreal. I let the sweet harmonies lull me to sleep...
In the morning, Sylvie explained to me
that her neighbor hosts choir practice at her house every once in a
while. I’ve only heard them practicing that one night, so I’m just
going to imagine they were singing to welcome me! She also let me
know that there are not
normally this many mosquitoes. My
homies were rollin’ deep because of all the grass in the yard.
(Shout out to anyone who actually uses the word homies, or who knows
what “rollin’ deep” means.) The gardener hadn’t come in two
months because, well, basically he’s lazy! This is when I learned
my first Creole phrase, “
Wi pani poutchi.”
Basically, “If you say yes, you have no problems.” It essentially
means that if you say yes, people stop hassling you. This is a very
prevalent mentality here in Martinique! If you say, “Come mow my
lawn!” and the other person responds, “Oh, you see, I can’t
really because I have this thing with my daughter’s teacher’s
cousin’s garden thing thing and then I have to go bake a watermelon
and water my cactus…” etc, etc… then you don’t give up. You
continue, “No! That’s two months since you last came and my house
is swarming with mosquitos and na na na!!” And it escalates so on
and so forth. According to Sylvie, Martiniquans are very
nonconfrontational. Thus, they have a very practical way of avoiding
this entire downward spiral of chastising, finger-pointing,
puffed-chest, hands-on-hips shouting matches. They simply say “
Oui”
– “Yes, OK, I’ll come!” – And then they don’t. Smart, no?
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Sylvie's/My house ! |
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The back yard, complete with a BBQ and clotheslines |
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My itty-bitty bathroom! |
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About 1/3 of the big common room on the bottom floor where I live |
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The front yard! |
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More of the front yard, and the neighbor's goats! |
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The view from the balcony upstairs. That's the Atlantic! What a perfect place for a hammock... |
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Laureen making rice in our kitchen (bottom floor) |
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The regular fixtures in the common room off the kitchen: TV, computer, Jean-Marc on the futon. |
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My desk with my mosquito raquette, my new camera, and some of the photos of all of you I have up on my wall! |
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My room now, downstairs |
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